Revival of the lauhala hat, 1919.

Lauhala Hat May Reign Once More

When the Hilo Ad Club visited Honolulu in Territorial Fair week, they all wore lauhala hats, which a few years ago were worn almost exclusively by Hawaii’s male citizens. Following up this re-introduction of the native woven Hawaiian headgear, J. Walter Doyle, who had charge of the publicity for the Fair, appeared on Honolulu’s streets with a widebrimmed papale, adorned with a pugaree.

Not a 15 years or more has the native-made lauhala hat been in the honored position as a part of the sartorial adornment of Honolulu’s men about town, but up to that time it held its own steadily against the encroachment of the straw sailor from Philadelphia and Troy and Camden, running a good second to the jaunty and serviceable Panama, then purchaseable at a reasonable price.

The increased duties on the real Panama have served to make the Panama a luxury as a part of men’s dress, while the lauhala, not fashionable enough to go with custom made serges and the creations of Broadway and State street finally went into the discard, despite its cool and shady qualities.

[Let’s bring it back! And who needs a pugaree when you can pair your hat with a nice lei…]

(Maui News, 7/4/1919, p. 1)

Lauhala Hat May Reign Once More

The Maui News, Twentieth Year, Number 1007, Page 1. July 4, 1919.

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Papale styled after hale? 1902.

HATS AND HABITATIONS.

Theory of Relation Between Houses and Headgear Expounded by an Architect.

“Hats and Houses” was the subject of a novel 20-minute illustrated talk lately given by Edgar Allen Poe Newcomb, the architect, in the rooms of the Young Women’s Christian association, says the Honolulu Advertiser. Mr. Newcomb’s address was intended to show the relationship of the headgear of various peoples in both ancient and modern times to their habitations and public buildings. In 40 large colored illustrations, designed personally by Mr. Newcomb, the similarity was made striking. The designs were arranged in pairs, one to show the hat and manner of wearing, and the other the style of architecture based upon it.

The speaker began by saying that his talk was upon “Hats and Houses, or Headgear and Habitation,” but which should come first in order was difficult to determine, as difficult as it is to determine whether primitive man wore clothes before he chose his cave. He said that every nation under the sun has its own style of architecture, as well as certain kind of headgear peculiar to its people. Helmets, turbans, miters, bonnets, hats and wigs seem to bear a certain likeness to domes, spires, turrets, pagodas, gables and frontons, but just why this should be he was unable to say.

In some of the examples shown Mr. Newcomb called attention to the fact that the headdress bore the form of the whole building, as in the Hawaiian, Laplander and Egyptian styles; in some it resembled only the crowning point of the building, as in the Grecian, Roman, Russian and Turkish styles, and in others the form was only carried through the detail of the building, as in the Rococo style. Speaking of the ancient styles of architecture, he called attention to the grass house of the Hawaiian islands, which seemed to have been the prevailing style long before civilization placed her frigid finger on the natives and turned their attention to clothes. What the natives first took to he was unable to say, but he knew that the Hawaiian hat as worn to-day was one of the characteristic things now made and worn here. He showed an illustration of the lei-bedecked hat and also a companion picture of an old-time grass hut, the similarity of appearance being remarkable. Next was shown a picture of Egyptian wearing the peculiar headgear which is seen in the architectural features of their temples—a flat top with the sides diverging. The tall pagoda-shaped hats of the Chinese showed a remarkable likeness to the pagoda temples of the celestial empire. Continue reading

Hawaiian-based? fashion in New York, 1921.

[Found under: “Maison Fashion Offers These Eight Appealing Suggestions For Miss Manhattan’s Everyday Wardrobe For the Coming Spring and Summer”]

This cool-looking ripply-ruffly frock of white crepe de chine puts the wearer in just the proper mood for her tropical feather hat in Hawaiian effect.

Underwood

(New York Tribune, 3/13/1921, pt. 6, p. 12)

This cool-looking...

New York Tribune, Volume LXXX, Number 27,146, Part 6, Page 12. March 13, 1921.

Hawaiian influence in music and fashion, 1917.

IN THE MOMENTS’ MODES

Her Hawaiian Hat

IF WE listen to fashion authorities today we are convinced that harmony is just important to millinery as it is to music, and its influence prevails in both alike. This may account for the Hawaiian influence extending from “Aloha oe” and the like to this new leghorn hat, which has a brim apparently unfinished, with the edge not a little suggestive of the grass skirts worn by Hawaiian belles. The brim is of natural color straw and the flowers and trimmings are made of straw, all of which are enhanced by way of contrast with the rich seafoam or blue crown of the favored Yo-San silk.

(Evening Ledger, 4/5/1917, p. 12)

IN THE MOMENTS' MODES

Evening Ledger, Volume III, Number 174, Page 12. April 5, 1917.

Ahuula and priceless treasures gone up in smoke, 1901.

THE AHUULA WAS DESTROYED BY FIRE

This Possession Belonged to Keaumoku.

S. L. Peleiholani claims $500 in damages
for this Feather Cloak.

Before the fire inspection Commissioner, seen was the relationship of S. L. Peleiholani to Kamehameha I, the conqueror of the nation [Ka Naʻi Aupuni], and also seen was the destruction of a very valuable ahuula in the bubonic fire. Peleiholani claimed $500 damages for this ahuula, and he said that he was urged to sell the ahuula for $1,000, which he absolutely refused to do. This is an ahuula that was cared for by his grandparents on down to him, and for this reason, he refused money which kept appearing before him until the cloak was consumed by fire.

Peleioholani added a claim of $2,140.05, and the majority of the assets were inherited from his kupuna. He is the child of Peleiholani and Pukeau. His grandfather was a child of Kalanuilumoku [Kalaniulumoku], a grandchild of Kamehameha I. His grandfather married Kahana, a daughter of Keaumoku, the one to whom belonged this ahuula. This Keaumoku was a high chief, and an minister [kuhina] of Kamehameha I, and he received may greatly valuable gifts from the conqueror of the nation. Peleiholani cared for this ahuula for a long time, and showed it to the many people who came before him to buy this cloak. The sum of money desired to offer him reached a thousand, and some ministers of Kalakaua came before him wanting the ahuula for the King. He refused all of these urging, and said to them that there was no way money could buy this ahuula while he was alive. Some men came from the alii Kalakaua bringing wine and money and put it at his side, intending to get him to drink until drunk when he would agree to giving this ahuula to the alii, however they left without.

There is but one other ahuula like it, and that is the ahuula cared for in the Kamehameha Museum [Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum]. When people ask for the actual monetary value of that ahuula, they say Peleiholani’s claim is right, but the actual truth is that the true value of this ahuula reaches $2,000. Mrs. Mary Ailau was a witness called to testify as to the truth of the claim, and according to her testimony, it was correct; and she went before this man many a time and urged him to sell to her this ahuula for $500 and her request was refused. She felt that the true value of the ahuula reached all the way to two thousand dollars. When she was asked if the ahuula was auctioned off, how much would she offer, Mrs. Ailau answered that she would bid as much as one thousand dollars, and if she had a lot of money, she would bid up to two thousand dollars for this ahuula.

In this claim by Peleiholani, it is seen the great amount of valuable antiquities he was caring for and that was destroyed in the bubonic fires. If these treasures were not burned in the fire, and they were bought off of him, he would have gained a large amount of money. This is an example to we Hawaiians, showing the great value of some antiquities which we are just selling off or discarding. Take care of them and find out their value before throwing them away.

[I am guessing not only were there priceless objects in Peleioholani’s collection, but also manuscripts, as he is well known for his writings!]

(Kuokoa, 10/18/1901, p. 6)

PAU KA AHUULA I KE AHI

Ka Nupepa Kuokoa, Buke XXXIX, Helu 16, Aoao 6. Okatoba 18, 1901.

Kaleimamahu’s ahuula, 1882.

[Found under: “HAWAII NEWS”]

The feather cape of Kaleimamahu which was inherited by the queen, Hakaleleponi, and then to the alii father, C. Kanaina, was purchased at auction by the Government for $1,200.

[Anyone know what became of this ahuula?]

(Ko Hawaii Pae Aina, 8/5/1882, p. 3)

O ka ahuula o Kaleimamahu...

Ko Hawaii Pae Aina, Buke V, Helu 31, Aoao 3. Augate 5, 1882.